Something of a misnomer we think as the phrase conjures up a sombre affair rather than the exuberant fun filled day we have just experienced.    On the 1st November, early in the day, Guatemalan families gather around their family graves and clean, tidy, paint and lay flowers before they settle down to eat and drink.   By midday the majority of folk head up the hillside for the kite display.   Flying kites is the way to send messages to the ancestors and thereby ward off evil spirits - it is an ancient tradition, but  the Sumpango Sacapetuez festival is one of most spectacular in the world.  The kites can take months to construct from coloured paper tissue, glue, string, rope and bamboo.  The enormous ones we saw were about 40' high but they don't actually fly, they're for show.  The largest we saw airborne were about 20' diameter and it was great to see them go up - quite an effort though and some of them didn't survive too long!   It was a long bus trip, back and forth, but well worth it.  We've had another unforgettable experience.