We took our bikes to see Chaumont and spent the first part of the sightseeing trip pushing them uphill!   At the top of a hill, this medieval town - now the administrative capital of Haut-Marne - is a mix of new and ancient.  The Basilica of St John the Baptist with its Tree of Jesse (c. 1530-1540) was well worth a visit ... note Goliath’s head!   Also the stone railway viaduct is an amazing feat of engineering - 600m long, 50m high and completed in1857 after only 15 months!  Unfortunately the walkway was shut due to building works so we weren’t able to check the views - or our vertigo!