Awoken from a deep sleep by the constant sounding of a klaxon, we peered out of our cabin to find the local ferry virtually parked against our bow with a fairly irate immigration official on the front, gesticulating at us, wanting to know when were we leaving: first light, we replied, as agreed when we checked out; he then asked to see our ‘zarpe’ (clearance to leave Cuba). James reluctantly handed it over and when the official – still clutching our papers – indicated to the ferry to move off (which, incidentally, he’d ‘hi-jacked’, having no boat of his own), a serious amount of sweet talking took place to get the papers back! Suffice to say, our agreement with the Marina Dockmaster and Immigration to leave Cuba at first light was rescinded and we had to weigh anchor there and then. What’s more they sent a Pilot boat out to check that we left! Hmmmm … we have loved Cuba but in retrospect perhaps the best way for us to get around and see everything would have been to arrive by plane!!