A feeling of nostalgia overcame us as we entered the cappuccino-coloured Essequibo River. With deceptive sand banks, narrow channels and muddy swirling waters we could almost imagine ourselves back in the Bristol Channel – if it weren’t for the heat! We sailed 51nm up the river in a stately fashion – reminiscent of Out of Africa … only it’s South America! – and then the wind died off and we motored the last few miles on the incoming tide before anchoring for the night. Totally on our own, on the edge of the rainforest: it would have been the most peaceful, tranquil night we’d spent in weeks, if it wasn’t for the parrots, cicadas and the noisiest bunch of tree frogs we’ve ever heard (and that includes Antigua)! Mother Nature at her best. We slept like logs only waking the next morning when a boat passed fairly close to us with the occupants chatting to each other – one small child in immaculate uniform being ferried up the river to school by his father.